leaving Delhi today
with some regrets... though Aaron assures me that Haridwar will be wonderful. Yesterday we had a most gorgeous day at the Crafts Museum here, a beautiful place with banyan trees, roomsful of the most amazing artifacts (an ancient Bahai shrine depicting "the 14 auspicious dreams of the mother, and a goddess being "lustered" by an elephant" -- any idea what that means?), etc. We also visited the shrine of a 14th-century Sufi saint, where he is celebrated with earthenware pots hung on the trees, and his tomb is high high up on a hill, in a little glass and green-painted wood house, covered with a green silk shroud and heaped with rose petals. Outside were two old men playing harmonium and drums.
Don't know what internet access will be like in Haridwar, but soon I will figure out how to put some photos and maybe some audio up here...